... at the breaking point. The method was used to track an individual wave face by identifying the steepness of the local free-surface profile. Changes to the angle of wave steepness due to shoaling were measured over a number of wave profiles. The wave crest corresponding to an identified wave face is tracked...

... results indicate that the transient pore pressure is dominant in the upper part of the seabed while the residual component prevails in the lower one. Parametric studies are conducted to investigate the effects of the current velocity, the wave steepness, and the soil permeability on the pore pressure...

... are investigated. INTRODUCTION With the development of offshore oil-gas exploitation, the study of hadal marine zone is an inevitable trend of ocean development. The waves with large wave steepness (e.g., focused wave) always appear in deep sea, resulting in tremendous damages to platforms. Under the combined...

... been reported by Chakrabarti and Tam (1975), Nakamura (1976) and Neelamani et al (1989). variation wave steepness random wave correlation vertical cylinder diffraction diffracted wave steepness spectrum cylinder surface elevation transfer function wave field wave diffraction...