The northeast coast of Taiwan is well-known for its amazing nature beauty. However, the tourism infrastructure is relatively underdeveloped, specially on the seashore side. Furthermore, the region suffers from beach erosion as well as sedimentation in fishing harbour. A database of the wave climate is vital for understanding and predicting of the morphodynamic processes in this region. In this way, suitable measures to maintain a sustainable coastal environment can then be proposed. This paper was written with the hope that a small contribution can be made toward this goal. Two sets of wave data and one set of wind record were used for the study. The wave energy as well as the interrelationships among different parameters of both the wind and wave fields are studied here. For a better understanding of the possible effects of refraction and shoaling in this region, simulation of the wave field is also carried out using the PMS (Parabolic Mild Slope) model from DHI.
The shoreline discussed in this paper consists of rock beach interchanged with sandy beaches. The water depth in the bay can reach 60 m. Generally speaking, the coast in the north region of Ou Dee consists mostly of coral reefs, whereas sandy beaches are found in the south region. Wave data from two measuring stations were used for the study. The first one, Long Dong, is located in the northern part; whereas the second one, Long Men, is situated in the southern part of the region. Since parts of the two wave records were measured concurrently, a comparison can be made. Wave data from measuring station Long Dong was measured by a buoy, where the water depth is 32 m. Water depth at Long Men is 14 m, and a pressure type wave gauge was used.
