... (Subramani et al., 1998) use a criterion able to detect likelihood of wave breaking. criteria computation breaker wave breaking fine grid experiment vertical pressure gradient breaking point constant-depth part spilling breaker free surface elevation nadaoka reservoir simulation grid...

... and pressure field of irregular nonlinear waves from these data. From the analysis of the experimental results with this technique, it was found that when a wave breaks the vertical pressure gradient decreases rapidly and becomes nearly zero in the vicinity of the wave crest. By incorporating this fact...