... (regular waves) on a smooth slope of 1/35. Their results showed that under a plunging breaker the turbulence levels are much higher and the vertical variations of the undertow current and the turbulent kinetic energy are more uniform in comparison to the spilling breaker. They also showed...

... of the wave shear stress in a variable water depth with breaking and non-breaking wave conditions. The theoretical predictions were compared with field measurements provided by Wilson et al. (2014). equation vertical profile spilling breaker simulation engineering openfoam average horizontal...

... ABSTRACT Experimental observations for the vertical distributions of velocity profiles and corresponding Eulerian mass transport under spilling breakers in outer and inner surf-zone boundary layer are presented. A particular efficient and non-intrusive high-resolution particle image...

... (Subramani et al., 1998) use a criterion able to detect likelihood of wave breaking. criteria computation breaker wave breaking fine grid experiment vertical pressure gradient breaking point constant-depth part spilling breaker free surface elevation nadaoka reservoir simulation grid...

...., 1990), and bubble entrapment by capillary waves (Longuet-Higgins, 1990c; Kolaini and Crum, 1993). 57 Recent laboratory studies of breaking waves were reported by Medwin and Beaky (1989), and by Medwin and Daniel (1990); in these studies, they measured sound generated by gently spilling breakers...

.... This model allows a detailed analysis and prediction of breaker dimensions, onset, and stability, which fit well with experimental data. Breaking waves at sea are not steady, but transient, and Longuet-Higgins and Turner (1974) had proposed to model dynamic spilling breakers as a turbulent, aerated density...