... separately the alongshore and cross-shore wavenumbers. Then using the dispersion relation from the linear theory of wave propagation, the estimated depth for a 30 days period of measurement was obtained. estimation dataset glagah beach nearshore bathymetry estimation wavelength actual depth...

... of finite water depth. The nature of the roots of the complex dispersion relation due to the presence of a submerged porous structure is analyzed using the counting argument and contour plot. Numerical results for the reflection and dissipation coefficients, free surface elevations and force on the rigid...

... current velocity dispersion relation ellingsen vertical velocity distribution water wave group velocity equation pressure impulse initial value problem upstream oil & gas disturbance Initial Value Problems for Water Waves in the Presence of a Shear Current Yan Li, Simen Å. Ellingsen...

... have been processed with the wavenumber-frequency analysis (k-f) to identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It is shown that the 0th-order edge waves mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, a detailed two-dimensional k-f revealed...

... of wave propagation from deep to shallow water is still a challenge, since most dispersive nonlinear long wave equations only have solutions in shallow water and the dispersion relation is not well satisfied in deep water. Wave evolution through the propagation over variable bathymetry is a complex...

... wave number coefficient plane slope elevation viscous wave porter vmse reflection coefficient boundary condition propagation planar slope dispersion relation bottom condition viscosity mild-slope equation different viscosity On the Reflection of Viscous Waves Propagating Over...

... ABSTRACT: Whitham derived the nonlinear Schrödinger equation from the most general form of the nonlinear wave dispersion relation. The NLS equation was analyzed from the second-order Stokes' nonlinear deepwater wave dispersion relation. The exact solutions of the nonlinear wave were obtained...

... for the fluid. artificial viscosity amplitude three-dimensional nonlinear wave boundary condition fluid mech dispersion relation gravity-capillary wave dynamic boundary condition solitary wave viscosity equation disturbance ice sheet experiment ice plate approximation deflection Three...

...). vaughan reflection coefficient squire coefficient decay viscosity region 0 ice-coupled wave minima ice sheet thickness resonance equation decay rate amplitude williams random sheet dispersion relation transect The scattering and damping of ice-coupled waves Gareth L. Vaughan...

... is based on a finite volume method. We have also studied the dispersion relation for hydrodynamic waves at the interface between two compressible fluids. INTRODUCTION Sloshing of a free liquid inside a closed container leads to impacts on its walls. It is important to predict the sloshing pressures...

... ABSTRACT The dispersion curves defined by the dispersion relation for diffraction-radiation by a ship advancing through regular (time-harmonic) waves, within the classical 3D frequency-domain potential-flow framework, in uniform finite water depth are considered. INTRODUCTION The curves...

... water) at the bottom of harbors or channels. free surface internal-wave mode amplitude frequency numerical computation diffraction problem denote relation interface finite depth dispersion relation radiation experiment reservoir characterization surface-wave mode incident wave...

.... This representation of farfield waves provides considerable information and shows that—except for their amplitudes—farfield waves are entirely determined by the dispersion relation associated with the class of dispersive waves under consideration. Indeed, although farfield waves generated by a ship advancing...

... demodulates in shallow water both in experimental and numerical results. order wave group simulated surface elevation power spectra evolution frequency surface elevation equation state key laboratory elevation subsea system boussinesq equation ocean eng dispersion relation wave group...

... water, Boussinesq equations have been proposed. The standard Boussinesq equations derived by Peregrine (1967) can only be used in shallow water, as the error of its dispersion relation increases with the increase of water depth. Later a number of modified Boussinesq equations are proposed with more...

... denote hydro-elastic behavior subsea system estimation lee-side edge floating production system takagi platform vlf numerical result approximation dispersion relation drift force variation nanba rigidity flexural rigidity wavelength Wave Drift Force and Moment Acting on a Very Large...

... ABSTRACT A Boussinesq equation based numerical model has been proposed to study the wave field in a multidirectional sea. The basic physics of the model follows the concept of depth averaged velocity distribution along with an enhanced dispersion relation. The ADI algorithm has been employed...

... to estimate the distribution of wave amplitude in the region of arbitrary bottom topology. In this work, standard procedure of the ray theory is applied. The only difference is the dispersion relation of waves in the platform. Therefore, the explanation about the out side of the platform is ehminated. D...

... in the far field. This situation occurs in the context of capillary-gravity surface waves (e.g. Vanden- Broeck, 1991). michallet generalized solitary wave long internal wave upstream oil & gas oscillation amplitude long wave computation correspond internal wave dispersion relation...

... satisfying the porous-medium dispersion relation is first studied. It is found that the wave number characteristics are strongly influenced by the wave-effect parameter and the friction factor. The reflection and dissipation of a monochromatic surface wave by a sloping beach or dam are then investigated...