The paper describes the development of a numerical model for the simulation of breaking waves on a slopping bed. The significant benefit of the present study over the traditional way of analyzing wave propagation problems is to apply the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes) process and the embedding method by taking account of the fully nonlinear, viscous and turbulent effects on the physical problem. The model is employed to simulate the flow kinematics and the turbulence effects in the RANS equations. Based on a staggered computational mesh, an explicit numerical algorithm is employed with a predictor-corrector procedure of pressure and velocity field computation. To track the free surface movement with wave breaking, the volume of fluid (VOF) method is employed. Coupling the volume of fluid method (VOF) and the embedding method, the treatment on free surface problem and complex bottom topography can be easily reached. In comparing with the existing measured data, a good agreement is found between numerical results and measured data. The predicted wave deformation, mean velocity field, and turbulence distribution under the breaking wave are presented and discussed. method.
Wave run-up has been studied for many years, because breaking waves in a surf zone play an essential role in nearly all coastal processes. For example, strong turbulence which enhances the sediment transport in surf zone is generated after waves break. Due to the effect on sediment transport, wave breaking may cause many problems in the coastal region, such as beach erosion and damage to coastal structures. In order to determine run-up of Cnoidal waves, a series of theoretical and experimental studies have been performed. In the early 1950s, researchers began to investigate run-up of Cnoidal waves on a plane beach through laboratory experiments
